This is the time in summer that tries men's souls: it's either thunderstorming or mercilessly hot and humid.

Bring on October, please. Until it gets here, I offer a list of fave potables for the yucky season.

1. German Riesling. The 2001 vintage is wonderful, and the retailers seem to know it; prices are creeping up at my local shop. Thirst-quenching, delicate fruit, minerally finish, with a fine electrical charge of acidity.

2. Corona. Whatever. I know it screams "Cancun Spring Break 2003 4-EVER!! :) ;)" but just squeeze a lime and you have a simple, well-made, refreshing drink to toss down on sultry days and with hot food.

3. Lightly chilled Beaujolais. Not Beaujolais Nouveau; the real stuff. I favor old standbys like Duboeuf and Jadot, but there are other good producers. I had half a bottle with my dinner tonight (Indian takeout) and it was great.

4. Pilsner Urquell. The ur-pilsner is actually not that light a beer. Despite its color, it's got a good deal of body. But I love it in the summer for the same reason I love it at other times: it is so damn tasty. N.B. -- more than any other commercial beer, I find, Pilsner Urquell needs to be kept in a dark place. Light (esp. the fluorescent light in many liquor stores) quickly damages the beer through the green bottle glass, giving it an off odor and breaking down some of the flavor notes. Try to buy it as fresh as possible and stash it in the fridge or a closed pantry. A glass on tap at the local pub is also a fine option.

5. Woodchuck Dark 'n' Dry Cider. 'Nuff said. I've descanted on the pleasures of cider here before.